Tough Love: Helping Your Dog Lose Weight

There are a number of different factors that can cause a dog to become overweight. Overindulgence on the part of the owner plays a large part in pet obesity. We all want our pets to be happy, and sometimes an extra handful of kibble does the trick. Certain breeds of dogs are also more likely to eat quickly and/or become overweight. Additionally, basic poor eating habits and a lack of exercise will result in an overweight dog.

Why Worry About Dog Obesity?
Like humans, excessive weight in dogs can lead to health problems like diabetes, arthritis, and heart disease. Studies show that 25% of overweight dogs suffer from severe joint problems which ultimately lead to decreased activity, further contributing to a long-list of other health problems. Obese dogs are found to have significantly shorter life expectancies than healthier dogs. It is therefore very important to take control of a pet's weight problem before it becomes out of control.

How Can I Tell?
To understanding whether your dog is overweight, look at its ribs. You should be able to feel your dog's ribs when they are standing, and, depending on the breed, see the ribs during exercise. If you are still unsure whether your dog is overweight, ask your veterinarian to provide you with a good weight range for your dog and an assessment of their overall health.

Over 40% of American dog owners have an overweight pet. That is a large number but luckily there are some easy to follow, basic steps you can take to bring down Fido's weight in a healthy and easy manner.

1. Visit The Vet
Before making any changes to your pet's diet, schedule a veterinarian appointment so that an overall assessment of your dog's health can be taken. Keep a simple record of your dog's sleeping, eating, and playing habits before you go to help your vet assess what may be causing any weight gain.

2. Re-evaluate Your Dog's Diet
Reducing the amount of food your dog eats may be the key to reducing their weight. Dog owners should measure how much food they feed their dog regularly and then set a goal for reducing that amount by a certain date. You should check with your veterinarian to determine how much food your dog needs daily and slowly reduce the amount of food over an appropriate amount of time. Dog bowls that restrict the open space in the dog bowl, such as the DogPause Bowl, are useful both for slowing down dogs who eat their food quickly and for clearly showing how much food is in the bowl.

Your vet may also recommend a weight reduction dog food. These dog foods are usually low in fat, but high in fiber, allowing your dog to feel full while taking in fewer calories. When shopping for low-calorie dog food, look for one containing at least 25% crude protein. This will ensure your dog's muscle mass remains intact throughout weight loss.

3. Set Feeding Times
Dogs like consistency and predictability. They may have become accustomed to getting food whenever you come home. In this case, they have associated your attention with getting food. To help your dog lose weight, try setting out two feeding times, one in the morning and another in the evening. This will help them eat slower twice a day.

4. Don't Reward With Food Alone
As you cut down on the amount you feed your dog, your dog may start to beg or become irritable. Distract your dog by taking him or her for a walk or playing fetch rather than giving into their begging. This will help teach them that food doesn't equate with love. Plus, all overweight dogs can use some extra play time.

Dog Training – Easiest Dogs to Train

There are many different breeds of dog and choosing the right one for you or your family can be a difficult choice as there is several different aspects to consider. This article may help you decide on the one you want by naming the dogs with the best training abilities.

There are no guarantees with which dog breeds will behave in certain ways and there will always be exceptions in every breed of dog but there are many characteristics that you can look out for when finding the correct breed for you, here are some of the top dogs in order of ease to train and how quickly they pick up the different tasks and activities.

Labrador Retriever

The Labrador retriever is a very affectionate dog that takes well to unknown strangers, very friendly and the best of our choice of dogs that are easy to train.

Australian Cattle Dog

The Australian cattle dog is yet another easy breed to train and teach new tricks to due to their passion for learning, not so good with other pets and may be a bad choice if other pets are around at your home.

Sheepdog

Sheepdogs are renowned for being a good well behaved training dog on places such as farms and holdings. Although good and faithful to owners, these dogs don’t take so well to other people who are not familiar, if you have many visitors to your home it may be a choice of breed.

Australian Shepherd

This is again a dog with very high drive to learn new things and explore things further but is not as friendly as the Labrador retriever at the top of the list and is not as energetic either, but is a good protector of the home.

Border Collie

The border collie is not as trainer friendly as some of the breeds above but is a very hard working dog with lots of affection and energy. The border collie enjoys challenges and challenging training schedules. If you cannot spare at least an hour of intense exercise this might not be the correct dog breed choice for you.

There are many other dog breeds around, and you may prefer other training breeds so before getting a dog be sure to explore all aspects to make sure the chosen dog is correct for you.

Choosing the best dog food

Browse any grocery store or pet food store to buy Dog Food and you will agree that trying to decide on what is best for your dog is an exhausting task. Scanning the shelves of products available, you are bombarded by foods extolling different health benefits as well as a huge range of prices. The pet food industry is a multi-billion dollar industry and pet food manufacturers are eagerly marketing for every dollar. Not only are they marketing us to death, but also developing new products to put in front of us. Those products include "dry", "canned", "semi-moist" and health targeted products such as "senior", "premium" and "gourmet.

So which food is best for your dog? Finding that out takes time and research. The truth is, the best dog food is the one that meets your dog's nutritional requirements, which vary based upon the dog's age, breed, body weight, genetics, and amount of activity... and one that fits within your budget. It is definitely worth consulting a veterinarian to get the best advice and nutrition plan for your dog. But for those of you that want to take matters in your own hands, you will find detailed below the most important things you will need to know.

Dog Food Labels

Susan Powter comes to mind when thinking about food labels. Remember this iconic infomercial star with the coined phrase "Stop the Insanity"? Her gospel about nutrition and the importance of studying the ingredients on the side of the packaging to distinguish the various elements and how each plays its role in overall nutrition, was novel at that time. It seems that this was the beginning of the mass movement to better nutrition, label reading and choosing products more carefully.

With all the recent pet food recalls, millions of dog owners have extended this scrutiny to selecting a dog food. But we can't pull from the Susan Powter gospel for this, because dog foods are manufactured under a series of different standards and regulations, put forth by the AAFCO ( The Association of American Feed Control Officials ). There are special labeling requirements that require all dog foods to have certain information on the label. So, in order that we can all make a proper choice for our dogs, we must know how to read and understand the dog food label.

The AAFCO puts out an official publication, on a yearly basis, detailing special requirements for dog food. Among all the different requirements, they request all dog food manufacturers to adhere to label regulations and must include on the package the following:

# Product Name
# Guaranteed Analysis
# Nutritional Adequacy Statement
# Feeding Directions

The Name Game

When shopping for dog food, what is the first thing you look at? The product name, of course. We've all walked down the pet food aisle and seen the product names jump out as us...calling us. Displayed in bold type and fancy fonts such descriptions as "With Chicken", "All Life Stages", "Duck Entree", "95% Beef", "Natural Dog Food". But what do these descriptions really mean? Is it just fancy marketing? The AAFCO has set forth rules that dictate how ingredients can be used in a product name.

95% Rule

# Applies to most canned dog food that consists mostly of meat, poultry or fish.
# Specifies that at least 95% of the dog food must be the named ingredient on the label, not counting water and preservatives added for processing.
# Counting water, the product must still consist of 70% of the product.
# If the name consists of a combination of ingredients, the two combined must equal 95%.
# The rule only applies to ingredients of animal origin, so grains and vegetables cannot be used as part of the 95% rule. So if the product name was "Beef and Brown Rice", the product would still have to consist of 95% beef.

25% or "Dinner" Rule

# This rule applies to many canned as well as dry dog foods.
# If the named ingredient, or a combination of ingredients, found on the label consists of 25% of the weight (but less than 95%) excluding water for sufficient processing.
# The name must include a descriptive term, such as "Dinner", "Platter", "Entree", or "Formula".
# If more than one ingredient is in the name, they must both total 25% combined, with each named ingredient equalling or exceeding 3%.

3% or "With" Rule

# Originally, this rule was intended to apply only to ingredients highlighted on the package, outside of the product name.
# It allows manufacturers to highlight minor ingredients.
# The ingredient must have at least 3% added.
# The rule now allows manufacturers to use the term "With" in the product name.

Be careful when reading the dog food label because "Beef Dog Food" and "Dog Food with Beef" are not the same. The first must have 95% beef, whereas the latter only needs 3%.

Flavor Rule

# A percentage of any one ingredient isn't required.
# The word "Flavor" must appear on the label in the same font size and color as the ingredient name.
# The flavor might be the corresponding ingredient, but more often than not, it's another substance such as "meal", "by-product", a "stock" or a "broth".

Guaranteed Analysis

The guaranteed analysis is the next component that needs to be on a dog food label. It serves as a general guide as to what the percentages of the main nutrients and other items are in the total makeup of the product. At the bare minimum, the guaranteed analysis must consist of the following:

# Minimum Percentage of Protein
# Minimum Percentage of Fat
# Maximum Percentage of Fiber
# Maximum Percentage of Moisture

Go ahead and look at your label at this point. See it there? Good. Now, if you have a can of dog food and a package of dry dog food at your disposal, take a look at both labels. After careful analysis you might want to ask, "Hey Michael, I notice when looking at both labels that the dry dog food has way more nutrients. I thought canned food had way more protein...what gives?"

Keep this in mind, as I have noticed this as well, that the amounts of protein and other nutrients stated on the labels appear to be less for canned versus dry, but looks are deceiving. The reason? Differences in moisture content. Canned dog food, on average, consists of 75% water, while dry dog food contains about 10%. So to make a true comparison of the nutrient levels, we need to put both types on the same playing field. To do this, we will be converting both products to dry matter.

To convert the nutrients, we need to dust off our calculators that we last used in high school, in order to perform a little math. (And you said to your math teacher, "I'll never use this in the real world!"), But I digress. Here's the formula we will be using: % Guarantee divided by % Dry Matter multiplied by 100

Example In one corner, we have a canned dog food that has a guaranteed analysis consisting of 9% protein, 6% fat, 1.5% fiber and 78% moisture. In the other corner, we have a dry dog food that has a guaranteed analysis consisting of 24% protein, 14.5% fat, 4% fiber and 10% moisture.

# Dry matter of canned: 100 - 78 = 22
# Dry matter of dry: 100 - 10 = 90
# Now we can do our calculations

Canned Dog Food

# Protein: 9 / 22 x 100 = 40.9%
# Fat: 6 / 22 x 100 = 27%
# Fiber: 1.5 / 22 x 100 = 6.8%

Dry Dog Food

# Protein: 24 / 90 x 100 = 26.6%
# Fat: 14.5 / 90 x 100 = 16.1%
# Fiber: 4 / 90 x 100 = 4.4%

So after were done, do you notice the protein? The canned dog food actually has 14% more protein.

Nutritional Adequacy Statement

You've seen it on the labels..."Complete", "Balanced", "For All Lifestages", among others. But how are these claims substantiated? What rules are in place to regulate such verbage? The answer is set forth, once again, by the AAFCO.

The Nutritional Adequacy Statement is required and is one of the most important aspects of a dog food label. This statement assures us that a product meets all of a dog's nutritional requirements. So how is a dog food substantiated for nutritional adequacy? They must use one of two ways:

Calculations

# The method whereby the dog food contains ingredients formulated to provide levels of nutrients that meet an established profile
# Calculations estimate the amount of nutrients either by an average nutrient content of ingredients or results of laboratory tests using standard chemical analysis.
# If it meets the profile set by the AAFCO, the label will carry a statement as follows: "(Name of product) is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO (Dog) Food Nutrient Profiles for (specific life stage)."

Feeding Trials

# The product (or a similar product made by the same company) has been tested in dogs under strict guidelines and found to provide proper nutrition
# If it meets the profile set by the AAFCO, the label will carry a statement as follows: "Animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures substantiate that (name of product) provides complete and balanced nutrition for (specific life stage)."

The Nutritional Adequacy Statement will also include a statement about which life stage(s) the dog food is suitable for. Two profiles are used. Below is a definition of each and additional information about other profiles:

# Growth/Lactation - A product intended for growing puppies, for pregnant dogs or lactating females.
# Maintenance - Suitable for any adult, non-reproducing dog of normal activity level, but may not be sufficient for a growing, reproducing, or hard working dog.
# Terms like "Senior" or "Formulated for Large Breed Adults" means the dog food meets the requirements for the Maintenance profile, but nothing more.
# A product that doesn't fit within the two profiles above must state that "This product is intended for intermittent or supplemental feeding," except if it is conspicuously identified as a snack or treat.

Feeding Guidelines

Feeding guidelines are very broad, to say the least. At a minimum, they should include instruction like "Feed ___ Cups Per ___ Pounds." But keep in mind that these instructions are very rough estimates. Most people feed their dogs way too much. In fact, 25% of all dog's are overweight...causing problems such as:

# Diabetes
# Arthritis
# Heart and Liver Problems
# Bladder Cancer

You should treat the guidelines as a place to start. Talk with your veterinarian about your dog food and how much to feed. They understand that nutritional requirements vary and, by knowing your dog, they will be able to recommend a feeding schedule based upon several factors including:

# Age
# Body Weight
# Breed
# Genetics
# Activity Level

The best clothing for your cat

Do you love seeing your cat look fabulous? If so, you should definitely get your pet some excellent cat clothes. Wondering whether cats can wear clothes? Yes, that’s true, not only the pooches, but also now cats can get dressed up. However, unlike the pooches which get comfortable in the costumes with ease, cats won’t accept clothing as easily. Proper training is needed for cats to make them feel comfortable with clothing. Once you train your cat to wear clothes, the felines can dress according to the different occasions. These cat dresses not only make your cats look fabulous but also will be very comfortable to them. However, it is up to you to choose the best cat dress that perfectly fits your pet cat.

Cat Sweaters – Great looks with best comfort
'Cat Sweaters’- does that seem odd to you? Well that’s not odd anymore. If you love your cat very much you should get them a cat sweater to protect them from the cold. Cat sweaters are made of fine wool or the best quality acrylic and Mylar yarn which offer great comfort and warmth to your pet. However, it is important to select the correct sized sweater to ensure the best fit for your cat. There are very few pet clothes stores who offer custom sized sweaters based on your requirements.

Cat tuxedos
Do you love your cat so much that you cannot leave them alone even when you are at an evening party? Why should you leave them home when you love them so much? Now you cats can also dress up with cat tuxedos for evening parties and come along with you. Wedding parties, Prom nights, birthday parties – you can have your pet cat dressed up with great cat tuxedos for any occasion. Cat wedding dresses are also available so the female cats don’t get left out!

Clothing for your cat for different occasions
With your whole family dressed up for certain occasions, why should your cat – your best friend- be left behind? Cats can be dressed up for any occasion today. There are some cool cat wedding dresses too for your cat to attend the marriage functions with you. Do you like to make your pet cat look like a princess? You can do that too - there are fabulous princess cat costumes for your cat. Don’t forget cat swimsuits for those cats that love the water.

Cat clothes for Christmas
With Christmas just a few days away you will be shopping for cat Christmas costumes now. This Christmas, add some Christmas cat clothes to your shopping cart. The Christmas cat clothes will be a perfect gift for your pet this season. You can also surprise your guests with your kitty dressed in Christmas clothes welcoming them. When it comes to Christmas costume for cats, there are plenty of options to choose from. The ‘Jingle Bells Cat Collar’ will be the attention grabber this season. The ‘Cat Snowflake Sweater’ will protect your kitty from cold while they enjoy the snowflakes falling this season.

With lots of dressing options to choose from, your cats can look fabulous with different fashion cat clothes.

10 minutes to train your cat

If you have a cat - or more than one cat - then you're in the market for some quick and easy training tips. The following tips . . . tricks . . . and techniques cover a variety of situations that most cat owners encounter.

The key to effective training is consistency. Whatever you choose, be sure to do it on regularly, otherwise, you'll be sending your cat mixed signals. And that will only make it that much harder to train her. Forget about cat training in 10 minutes!

Below are ten "must have" tips that will get you through your initial phase cat ownership.

1. Cats really don't care that you punish them. It's true. If you've owned a dog, you know that punishing him will help change his behavior. It doesn't with cats. Bottom line. Don't waste your time. They'll sit there purring at you and just perform that same behavior again.




2. Corporal punishment is out of the question. Because a cat's body is so delicate, you can't "spank" a cat the way you do a dog to get its attention. That means when you're training your cat, you have to match wits with it. Don't worry. I'm confident you'll win. There are things out there like cat clicker training, but I don't recommend it.

3. Use a form of positive reinforcement. As you become a seasoned cat owner, you'll discover that it's difficult to catch your cat in the actual "crime". It's far easier, then, to reward your cat when you see her performing a right behavior. Keep some cat "treats" on hand. Feed one to your cat whenever she is doing something positive - like using the litter box or using her scratching post.






4. Keep plenty of toys - either store bought or make shift - around the house. Much of the "bad" behavior of cats is simply because they're board. The feline is by nature a predatory animal. Remember the scene in the Disney movie, The Lion King, where little Simba gets "pouncing lessons." When you think your cat is literally bouncing off the walls and tearing down the curtains, he's only practicing his predatory skills. Provide him with alternatives and he'll tame down - at least some.

5. When you're away, keep him busy. If your cat is used to company, he may get bored and inadvertently destruction while you're at work or are gone for any length of time. Here's a quick hint. Buy a timer for your television set, make sure the TV is tuned to an animal-friendly channel (an outdoor channel or Animal Planet for instance) and then have the television automatically turn on at different times of the day. Cats can see images on the screen. He'll come to investigate the noise and stay to watch the picture - at least for a while.

6. The value of a spray bottle of water. In some instances, spraying a cat with a harmless water bottle is enough to get their attention and stop the bad behavior. You only need a simple spray bottle that you use for misting plants. Squirt the cat if it misbehaves. Soon, he'll know that he can't do that.

7. Blow a harmless puff of air in your cat's face. Yes, this sounds crazy, but it really works. If your cat is literally in your face and you need to teach him to keep a certain distance and give you some space, try it. Blow a puff of air into his face. It'll startle and puzzle him. Soon, he'll associate the two and you won't be bothered by the unpleasant attention he gives you.

8. Make sure you cat has "a room with a view". You know what they say, "curiosity killed the cat." More appropriately, an irate owner went berserk over something a bored cat got into. Much of the bad behavior of your cat is simply due to his innate curiosity. Make sure he has a ledge or window sill that he can sit in comfortably to check out the birds and squirrels in your yard. If your window sill isn't large enough for him to sit for extended periods, you can by an extension at the pet store. Or, if someone you know is handy, you can make your own.





9. Spend quality time with your cat. As a training technique, this may sound a bit unorthodox. But, it's really a savvy move on your part. The more time you spend with your kitty, the better you'll be able to communicate with her. Cats definitely have a form of communication skills that involves more than just "talking." The better you know your cat - and just as importantly, the better your cat knows you - you'll be able "to read her mind". You'll just "know" when she's considering an improper move. And she'll know when you disapprove just by reading your body language and the look on your face.

10. Confine the aggressive cat. Reward the victim. Got more than one cat? Then you probably have that occasional "cat fight." Felines are territorial animals. They will get into a fight now and then over their "catdom." If you view the fight, your first step is to disengage the action. Using a water sprayer is the best method. Squirt the aggressor. Try to avoid squirting the victim. After that, confine the "bully" in a less attractive space. In the meantime, reward the cat who didn't attack - even when she was being attacked. Give her a treat and let her free roam the house. When you do put this pair of felines together again, try to keep them as supervised as possible.

These ideas are only the tip of the iceberg when you're training your cat. As you and your pet begin to know each better, you'll discover a language of your own. It may be through speech - you talk and she meows. But more than likely, the two of you will eventually be able to read each other's body language. You'll soon learn the subtle nuances of this very effective form of communication . . . and teaching your cat what she needs to know will be easier than you can ever imagine.

How To Eliminate Your Cat Allergy Symptoms- No More Wheezing, Sneezing Or Itching

Allergies to cats are quite common.

The allergic reactions can be immediate, or they can begin to show up gradually over time.

Often someone has owned a cat for some time, sometimes even years, before the allergic reactions begin to show.

Having to give the cat up at that point may be heartbreaking for everyone involved, including the cat.

Most often the first recommendation from medical doctors is to relinquish the cat.

That could have been good advice in the past, however, the past 15 years have seen a whole new "breed" of therapy methods based on the bodies energy system who are extremely effective at resolving allergies at it's deepest core -your energy system.

The methods are generally referred to as "Energy Therapy" "Meridian Therapy" or "Energy Psychology".

One of the easiest and most effective method is "Tapas Acupressure Technique" or, TAT. Generally, TAT is recognized to eliminate allergies in
about 85% of cases, and that has been this authors experience as well.


The major distinction between these therapies and traditional aids or therapies, is that instead of attempting to clear the allergen out of the air using all sorts of filters, specialized vacuums, Hepa filters, limiting the exposure to the cat, medications etc. the energy therapies work on your own energy system so that it can be in harmony with the allergen.

Very different concept.

Instead of (unsuccessfully) trying to change the environment so we can live in it without feeling ill, or to manipulate our system by medications, Energy Therapies very effectively balance the part of our energy system not in harmony with, in this case, cats.

Pretty much in the same way that Chinese medicine views illness as a disruption of the flow of vital life force in your system, Energy Therapies view an allergy as a substance your energy system is not in harmony with and is trying to repel.

It is the repelling of the allergen that causes the allergic reactions.

So, here is how you can view it. You feel OK, and then you are in contact with a cat, or breathe air containing the allergen. This causes your system to become disrupted.

The flow of energy is now disrupted, causing a horde of symptoms, as in all your allergy symptoms.

Sounds almost too simple, yes?

The energy therapies, using either acupuncture needles, or simply your fingers, will, by using special acupuncture points, balance the system in regards to the offending substance.

To do that, you first need to cause the same disruption your body, or energy system, would have if in actual contact with a cat.

That can be accomplished in a few different ways. The practitioner may have a vial containing cat dander that you can hold in your hand, or, even more effective, you can simply think about cats.

Thinking about cats when you are allergic to them is enough to cause an imbalance of your energy system.

Now, while your system is in imbalance, the intervention takes place. The intervention can be acupuncture needles inserted into key acupuncture points, or, an even more effective method, as in TAT, is to hold, with your own fingers, certain acupuncture points known for their effect on the brain.

The treatment may have to be repeated a few times. In most cases less than 3, in order to be able to allow your system to be in balance in the presence of cat dander.

Once your system is in harmony with the car dander, (or other allergen), there are no more reactions. Once the intervention is completed, the effects are most often permanent, requiring no re treatment.

The person who used to have a cat allergy can now interact with cats feeling perfectly OK.

Having to relinquish your cat because you have developed allergies is a painful decision no one should have to make.

Today, with modern cutting edge resources available, that decision may be one you never have to make.

How to groom your cat

To keep your cat happy, healthy and clean it is essential to properly groom your cat. By reading this section you will learn how and when to groom your cat and also what equipment to use. You will learn how to brush your cat, bath your cat, how to clean your cats ears and how to look after your cats teeth.
Brushing and combing your cat

Cats spend 10 percent of their waking hours grooming themselves by licking dirt and excess fur of their coat but this is not enough to properly keep them clean and some cats do not clean themselves properly. You should brush and comb your cat on a regular basis. Short-hair cats are much easier to groom than long-hair cats. If you are unsure of what your cat is, visit the breeds section. When you are grooming your cat you should be alert and checking for fleas, scars, wounds and lumps.



The first thing you need to know is the difference between a cat comb and a cat brush. A cat comb is used to remove excess hair, remove knots and to remove dirt. A cat brush is to fluff up the fur and make it smooth and look good. If you own long-hair cat I would recommend buying both a comb and a brush as you will learn later on, if you own a short-hair cat it is not as important but you can if you want.

You could alternatively choose to buy a cat grooming kit which includes a comb, brush and everything else you need. You can buy the right equipment from your local pet shop but you could also consider buying online. There are many different combs and brushes to choose from and all of them have their advantages and disadvantages. If you want to get the best results and not spend a fortune you should buy a wide toothed comb, a brush and a flea comb. This should all cost under $10 USD.

It is a waste of time brushing your cat with a normal comb/brush. The advantages of using a cat brush is that it shelters the natural body oils, the bristles gently remove tangles and after brushing your cat it will have a shiny, good looking and healthy coat. But most importantly it is designed to remove excess hair, then in future when your cat cleans itself it does not swallow as much hair, preventing it from having a hairball.

If you have a kitten, it should be brushed from an early age so it becomes accustomed to the process and doesn't find it a scary and distressing experience. It will enjoy the grooming procedure but most of all you will not have to train it later on in its life. If you have an adult cat that does not like to be brushed and finds the experience frightening, introduce grooming slowly and do not make the sessions more than five minutes. If this does not work you could try ending the grooming session with playtime so your cat will look forward to it each day. One of the most important things to remember is that a short session each day is better than a long session each week.

As I briefly mentioned before, short hair cats are easier to groom than long-hair cats, it is a bit more difficult and the process can take a bit longer. If you own a short-hair cat you should groom it on a weekly basis or every few days and it should take from 5 to 10 minutes. If you own a long-hair cat grooming should be done everyday or every two days and it should take about 10 to 20 minutes. By now you are probably thinking 'how can you brush a cat for 20 minutes'. The grooming process is not just brushing but is also cleaning nose and ears if necessary and sometimes brushing your cat's teeth. For more information about these, read on.

To groom your cat, follow these easy steps:

-Place your cat on a bench or table. It depends on what your cat is most comfortable with; some owners brush their cat on their laps.
-Gently brush from head to tale using short and gentle strokes with your comb to remove knots, do not pull hard otherwise it will hurt and distress your cat, making the experience unpleasant and enjoyable. For best results also brush under its neck and stomach. If you have a flea comb, brush again from head to tale.
-Use a brush to fluff up the fur, if you are unsure of what brush to use ask your local pet shop. A cat brush is good for your cat's appearance and health and can be brought from a number of different places.

Bathing your cat

It is not necessary to bath your cat unless it becomes very dirty. Most people who have prize-winning cats bath their cat on a regular basis. Many cats do not like water and find a bath a frightening and traumatic experience. If you ever need to bath your cat, the below information will tell you how. The first thing you need to do is to brush your cat to remove excess hair and dirt. Talk to your cat with relaxed voice to keep it as calm as possible and do no make quick movements. Have everything ready before you start which should consist of 4-6 towels, shampoo, a hair dryer and cotton balls. You can use special cat shampoo or you can use regular shampoo but it really doesn't make a difference.

Use cotton balls to protect water from getting into your cats ears. If your cat has smaller ears use only half or even a quarter. If you have a bathroom or laundry hose, use it because it makes it much easier. If you don't have a hose use a cup or plastic container. You should not wear good clothes because the chances are that you will end up as wet as your cat. Wash your cat in a bath or a laundry sink. Start by wetting it with warm water. Avoid wetting its eyes and ears as much as possible unless it particularly dirty.

Hold your cat firmly because it will try to escape and probably bite and scratch you. Once the cat is wet apply shampoo and gently massage. If your cat is really dirty you can shampoo twice. Rinse your cat from top to bottom and make sure you get all of the shampoo out. Use the towels to dry your cat as best as you can then finish the job off with a hairdryer.

Cleaning your cats ears

Cleaning your cat's ears should be a part of your grooming routine. To get rid of the dirt and wax, use a cotton swab but never go deeper than you can see because it can cause permanent damage to your cats hearing. It should be done every month.

Dental Care

Many people do not brush their cats teeth often enough, some have never done it. If your cat's teeth are not brushed, bacteria will build up and could result in loss of teeth. You should brush your cat's teeth every week. If you have a kitten you should start brushing when all of its 36 teeth have grown which is around 6 months of age. If you have an adult cat, introduce slowly and keep the sessions short.

You can buy special toothbrushes designed for cats but a child's toothbrush will be just as good, just make sure the bristles are soft so they do not cut the gums. Do not use normal toothpaste because it will cause digestive problems and make your cat sick. You can buy special cat toothpaste from your pet shop, vet or online.

To properly brush your cat's teeth start by gently brushing the outer surface of the teeth. Do not brush the inside of the teeth until your cat is used to the process. Brush in a circular motion from the bottom of the gum to the tips of the teeth. Some cats require professional cleaning when there is a severe build up of tartar. When brushing your cat's teeth note the condition of your cat's gums.

Consult your vet if the gums are swollen, if there is any bleeding, bad breath, drooling, dark spots, sores, refusal to open mouth or reluctance to eat. If your cat has any of these symptoms there is a chance that it has gum disease. Gum disease is common in cats and can be fatal unless treated. It begins with the build up of plaque and tartar which causes the roots to become infected. This can be prevented by regular brushing.

Finding the Perfect Cat Tree for your Cat, not as Easy as you Might Think

Many cats need a good amount of stimulation in order to keep them from becoming board, and we all know what a board cat is capable of! Cat trees provide that type of stimulation.

Most people wonder what to look for in a cat tree. As a cat tree manufacturer and a cat breeder, I would like to point out what is important to me.

Safety first:
All cat breeders know what mischief our cats are capable of. If there’s danger in your house, your cats are going to find it. Not only is the cat tree manufacturer responsible for making a well built, safe cat tree but the cat owner is responsible for using good judgement in the selection and use of it..

First, make sure the design of the cat tree does not compromise safety. Only purchase stable, well built cat trees. Beware of cat trees that are cheaply made and can collapse under the weight of your cats. You also want to purchase a cat tree that will not tip over when your cat , who has invisible wings it seems, takes a flying leap and lands on top or on the side of the tree. You have to take into account that smaller, lighter cat trees will not be as stable when used by a big, heavy cat, but even if you buy a small cat tree there are ways to test for stability. You can test your cat tree before purchase by taking it through the tip test. Tip the cat tree a bit and see if it falls over or if it rights itself (be careful if it’s a large tree, you don’t want a large tree falling on you and the store might not appreciate you knocking over all of the large trees in the place). Rock it a bit to see if it stays upright. It’s ok if the tree sways some with the movement of the cat, that’s normal, but it is not OK if the cat tree tips over easily.

If you purchase your tree from an internet website you won’t be able to put it through the tip test, but you can always ask for customer testimonials to see how other customers feel about the stability of the products you intend to buy. Be sure that there is a return policy in case the tree does not meet stability requirements, however, also be sure to read and agree to the store’s return policy before you make the purchase. Many stores will not let you return a used product so be sure to take the tip test before you let your cats use the tree.

Your cat tree should be sturdy enough to surface clean and sanitize. There are a large number of cats trees on the market that are made with cardboard tubing as the core of the structure. I don’t recommend cat trees made with cardboard because cardboard may not hold up well, especially if you surface clean your cat tree regularly with anything moist. If you have a cat tree with cardboard tubing as the main supportive structure, be sure to inspect it regularly for any weakness.

Many cat trees use toxic chemicals, dyes, and glues in the manufacturing process. It is not a good idea to use a cat tree with any of these items, particularly for cats that tend to bite at the carpeting and materials used on cat trees.

Be sure to buy a tree suitable for it’s purpose. Don’t buy a carpeted cat tree for outside unless it will be in an area protected from rain and moisture. If you keep a carpet and wood cat tree outside, even under a covered patio, moisture may still cause mold to develop on or inside of your cat tree.

For outside cat furniture, make sure that the cat house is suitable for cats. Most outdoor houses on the market are designed for dogs and not for cats, so do your homework when looking for those type of items.

Now for owner responsibility in the use and placement of the cat tree. As the owner it is important that you use good judgement when finding a suitable spot for your cat tree. Don’t put your cat tree in any area that cats might get hurt jumping down from the tree or if they should fall from the tree, particularly if the tree is very tall. One time someone reported that they placed a tall cat tree at the top of 3 flights of stairs. The stairs were open all the way to the basement. For unknown reasons the cat fell from the top of the tree and fell down three flights of stairs, landing on the basement steps. I’m happy to report that there were no serious injuries, but this was a lesson learned for that poor cat owner who chose the wrong spot for her cat tree!

My own cats spy their 6 foot cat tree from the 10 foot balcony in my house wanting to jump all the way over to the cat tree. My husband thought about putting the cat tree under the balcony so they could get onto the top of the cat tree from there. I thought it was not a wise idea because I did not want to encourage my cats to play balancing acts on the balcony rail, and if we ever moved the cat tree they might still think that they can play on the balcony. Instead, I keep the cat tree on the other side of the room and reprimand my cats when they get on the balcony. I plan on putting patio netting over the front of the balcony to keep them off.

There are other hidden dangers that the cat owner needs to beware of. Some cat trees are very large and heavy. You want to be sure that you keep large dogs and children away from and off off your cat trees. Large dogs might be able to tip over the cat tree and children like to climb on them and they might fall from the tree or knock them down on top of themselves. Make it clear to your human children and your non feline furry children that it is NOT OK to play on or around the cat tree.

Dangling toys can also be a huge hazzard for playful cats. I heard a report about an accident from a person tying a long, thin bungee type of toy to a cat tree. When the owner was out of the room the cat hung herself on the bungee cord. The owner came back into the room just in time to save the cat! If you want to put a danging toy on your cat tree, make sure it is not long enough for the cat to wrap around it’s neck.. Bungee type of toys can be particularly dangerous because they stretch.

You want to be cautious about any toy that is hanging from anywhere, be it doorknob or cat tree.

Finally, don’t do anything stupid like put a tv set on top of the cat tree trunk. It sounds really off the wall but I have heard of really strange uses for cat trees.

Accessability:

Make sure the cat tree you intend to purchase is accessible to your cats. There are all kinds of situations that call for a really accessible cat tree. Your cats may be old, overweight, declawed, or have health issues. If you have large cats, will your cat tree be large enough to accommodate them? Will they fit into the cubby holes or house(if the cat tree has holes or houses)?

The cats also need to be able to get up and down the tree easily or they probably wont use it.

A good idea is to get a cat tree that you can purchase additional parts in case your tree needs to be more accessible. If the cat tree looks like a cat tree, can your purchase extra branch steps? If it looks like a regular, multi level structure, can your purchase more steps? It’s also a good idea to purchase some sort of ladder for cats who are declawed (I am not a supporter of declawing but should you end up with a declawed cat you need to be able to accommodate it too). Your cat trees are no good unless your cats like them and will use them, so be sure your cat tree is designed with your cat in mind. We’ve had take a second look and to improve the accessability of our cat trees over the years.

Durability:

Durability is not only an issue of getting your moneys worth but also of safety. Most mass manufactured cat trees on the market today are made with the cheapest materials possible. As stated previously, many use cardboard tubing as the main support structure. Cardboard is not very durable, especially if you clean your cat tree. All plywood has some amount of chemicals in it, however, press board and chipboard has a large amount of undesirable chemicals in it and is not as durable as plywood or solid wood.

Fabric is not as durable as carpeting, which is thicker and can stand up to cats scratching better. Of course, no carpeting is going to last forever, but you will get more bang for your buck if your cat tree is carpet covered rather then fabric covered.

Appeal:

Appeal is more important then most people think. Not only should the tree appeal to your cats but it should appeal to you and your visitors. The cat tree should be designed in a way that is attractive to your cats. If a cat tree is designed with cats in mind, usually cats will take to it instantly. Many cats are territorial, so if you have a large number of cats or territorial, cats it is recommended that you buy a large cat tree with multiple, separate spaces for each cat to claim as it’s own.

There are certain materials that most cats are attracted to. Cats like warmth and softness when sleeping and they like things they can really dig their claws into when playing. Having a cat tree that provides spaces where you can put soft, warm cat beds is always a plus, as is having a cat tree that can withstand rough play.

Next we want a cat tree that will appeal to our design and style. It does no good to spend $2000.00 on a new leather sofa and thousands on decor if you’re going to have a big, ugly, rickety cat tree sitting in the middle of your livingroom! The idea is not to detract from your decor, but to add to it. There’s no reason you should compromise your style because you have cats to please (although your cats would tell you different). If that is the case, you might as well pick up the 70's checkerboard sofa sitting on your street corner and throw that into the living room for your cats to use as a scratching post. Of course, different people have different styles, likes and dislikes, so my idea of attractive might not be yours, but im sure you get the drift.

Finally, we come to PRICE::

It’s not true that 100% of the time if you spend less you’ll get less and if you spend more you get more, but generally speaking, you get what you pay for.

I’ll let you in on a not so secret, secret. I’m a penny pincher. I drive my family crazy. Let me tell you a story about my uh - hmmm...”penny pinching abilities”. When I was in school my father would take us to a restaurant every morning to eat breakfast before school. I’d buy the heaviest meal, and eat well every morning because I knew he’d give me $2.00 for lunch everyday. I never used the $2.00 to buy lunch. Instead, I would starve myself all day to be able to save the $2.00.I would go home famished but never broke. I saved so much money that way that when my other family members needed to borrow money they knew I always had some to lend them. Sure, I lent them the money, but I always charged interest! So what’s the moral of my story? If you can save a buck or two, please do. That being said, I never, ever, will compromise quality to save money. I feel that if you’re compromising quality to save money, then you really haven’t saved anything, in fact, you’ve lost money because it will be just that much faster that you’ll have to replace the item. I also, never buy anything im not 100% happy with buying. I won’t settle for second best because to me, second best is money not well spent. I don’t mind getting used items, but I have to be sure that those are of good quality as well. When it comes to cat trees, it’s not a good idea to get a used cat tree unless you know the person who your getting the cat tree from and know that the cats who used the tree are disease free. There are a terrible amount of diseases and parasites that can hide in cat trees.

If you’re anything like me, and I suspect that you are since I’ve done business with probably thousands of cat breeders and pet owners, you spend inordinate amounts of your cats but nothing on yourself. I’ll wear the same pair of tennis shoes until they fall apart (husband has to sneak into the closet and get them and throw them away because he knows I will wear them till I’m waking on insole liners held together with shoelaces), but when it comes to my cats, I have to have the latest, greatest and cutest. So, if you’re like me, I feel bad for you, but at least now you know how to find a perfect cat tree for your beloved furbabies.

A Safe, Clean, Odor Free House With Cat Litter

You should be able to find several indispensable facts about cat litter in the following paragraphs. If there's at least one fact you didn't know before, imagine the difference it might make.

People love their pets. In the United States alone (the world's biggest lover of our feline friends), there are an estimated 75 million pet cats. However, 75 million cats can create one humongous mess. For your cat's hygiene and the collective safety of everyone in your household, you'll most likely use cat litter to keep your house clean and dispose of your cat's waste. Cat litter has been around for the better part of the past century, and it continues to be improved as new materials are discovered or designed to cover the scent and become more efficient in a given volume than previous types of litter. In many ways, it is the single most important foundation of your cat's health in addition to a proper diet.

From the Origins to Modern Litter

In the first few years after World War II, a man by the name of Ed Lowe designed and sold the first mixture of cat litter to families. He became so successful that his company, built entirely from this one product (and expanded later), was worth half a billion dollars by his death in 1995. That's how important this product is to families today. At first, sand was primarily used in cat litter, but clay quickly became the standard because of its superior absorbency. Then, clumping cat litter was invented. Cat urine and feces cause the tiny particles to clump together so that it can be easily scooped out and replaced without having to change out all of the cat litter at once.

New advances such as biodegradable and silica gel cat litter promise even more options for cat owners. There are a couple of reasons why cat owners should absolutely consider what type of litter is best for their pet. Cost is a consideration for the vast majority of families out there, so it's important to keep litter cheap enough for people to purchase. This generally means that litter technological advances are slow and far apart as functioning, cheap products already exist. There simply isn't a great demand for new types of cat litter, although biodegradable litter was a large concern several years ago.

Cat litter is primarily used to cover up the foul odors associated with fecal matter and urine, and it provides a safe product to handle to get rid of those wastes from your household. However, there are some concerns with the use of litter. Flushing litter down the toilet can introduce the tiny parasite Toxoplasma gondii into the water ways, possibly harming a variety of marine life such as otters and sharks. Also, pregnant women should avoid handling cat litter if possible as T. gondii can harm the early fetus. Also, environmental concerns continue to linger about the estimated 2 million tons of litter that gets deposited in US landfills each year, so further research will be conducted into how to combat these various problems.


There's a lot to understand about cat litter. We were able to provide you with some of the facts above, but there is still plenty more to write about in subsequent articles.


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